However, if we offset the tweeter to the left or right we get a different diffraction curve. In conclusion, the overall frequency response will have a big dip at 2-3 kHz and big peak at 3.5 – 4 kHz. If both are in the middle of the baffle, they will have similar diffraction, and the diffraction effect will basically double up. This is the frequency band where the mid-bass and the tweeter will combine their responses. There is valuable information in the graph above. Let’s see the effects of diffraction from our tweeter, on our baffle : Normally you would place the speakers in the middle of the baffle, because it looks symmetrical. However, we can reduce diffraction problems if we offset the tweeter. You might think that placing the speakers is a straightforward thing to do. Just above, you can see an expanded view of enclosure panels, so you can get a better idea how it all fits together. Multiply all these by 2, because we need 2 speaker boxes. To have a baffle with good proportions and enough room to fit the port in the back panel, here are the panels which are needed : Consequently, we need to add all the components which go inside the box and take out space (volume).įor our cabinet we will use 18 mm MDF (1 mm less than standard 3/4″, but that is what I had lying around). Box volumeīefore we start writing our DIY speaker plans, we need to take into consideration that 15 is the net volume. The box dimensions remain as calculated before. I’m quite fine with that also, it will bring a bit more punch to the overall sound. The port is now 125 mm (including the flares, which is actually less than 120 if you discount part of the flares) and the tuning frequency shifted to 53 Hz. Simply remove the pipe and one connection ring and fuse the 2 flares together using the other connection ring. The port is made out of 2 flares, 2 connection rings, and a long pipe. Out of laziness, I didn’t cut any of the port’s tubing to length. To reach our tuning frequency the port needs to be 120 mm long. We are going to use a 2″ port flared at both ends. Regarding the frequency response, you can see from the graph above, that the linearity has suffered almost negligibly, and we gained a slight low end boost. Furthermore, making the box bigger will demand a shorter port, so even easier to fit. Second iteration :ġ5 liters should be enough size for everything that we need to fit in the box. In conclusion, we need to increase the volume and alter the tuning frequency, so we get a decent curve. However, you are going to have a bad time if you want to fit a decent size port inside of the cabinet. Now, this is all fine and dandy on paper. 10.15 liter enclosure tuned at 48 Hz, for a maximally flat Butterworth response.
Bookshelf 2 way driver#
I measured the T/S parameters of my particular driver and after a quick look at the alignments table, I concluded the following specs for the enclosure : To improve the lower end response, the enclosure will be a bass-reflex design. So make sure you do your best when building this loudspeaker. However, if you sum up all components, it does add up to a respectable price tag.
Bookshelf 2 way drivers#
The drivers are not expensive, nor cheap. SEAS CA 18 RNX – mid-bass ( Amazon) ( Sound Imports) ( MadiSound).Peerless XT25TG30-04 – tweeter ( Amazon) ( Sound Imports) ( Parts Express).For our project, we will be using the following drivers ( affiliate paid links) : It’s nice to follow a list and build something, but it’s a whole another thing when you understand some of the principles behind the process. Furthermore, we will touch some of the designing concepts behind our build as well.
Bookshelf 2 way how to#
In this article we will cover how to make a 2 way bookshelf speaker, with full DIY speaker plans, all the components and tools you need.
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